I was still alive when the Boer War began. Before highways and railway lines were first introduced. I lived right here in Bloemfontein, the city of roses. Which, in case you’re not familiar with it, also means ‘fountain of flowers’. I’ve also heard the Sotho people call it Mangaung, ‘place of cheetahs’. I guess that’s where the Free State Cheetahs get their name from. Best name for a rugby team I’ve ever heard.

Yes, this is Bloemfontein in all its glory. This is my city. With its peaceful atmosphere, and although life certainly has picked up a lot of speed in recent decades, the city manages to bestow upon its people the chance to slow down. To stress less and spend time with family members. And it’s so clean for a big city, so green. Trust me, Bloemfontein didn’t have this many trees back when it started out. Although I haven’t seen any of the other cities personally, I’ve heard it from a couple of traveling ghosts. They can be quite chatty those lot. 

This city sure has seen a lot. And, born in 1850, so have I. This was only a small town back when I was alive. It was actually just a farm way back, belonging to Johannes Nicolaas Brits. That was before Major Warden and the British troops turned it into a small village, naming it Bloemfontein. Our family was one of only three Afrikaans families living here at the time.

I went to an English school. Talked English. But we were still Afrikaner at heart. We even talked Afrikaans at home. My father spanked me if I even uttered an English word in the house. He didn’t want us to lose touch with our Afrikaner roots, hence me still referring to a lot of places in their Afrikaans names.

And if you think I’ve got a relaxed way of talking, especially for being a very old fart, as I’ve recently heard a youth mention, I’ve picked up a lot of local dialect. I spend most of my time hanging around the social events of the city, taking in the culture. There are just so many things happening here every day. But I guess I should’ve seen that coming even way back in the beginning. Bloemfontein people are just extra special. That’s one of the great things about living in this city, it still has the calmness and serenity of a small settlement, yet the passion and drive of a big city.

As a child, I spent most of my time playing in the dirt of St. Andrews and Douglas Street, as well as the Market square (my father made me call it Mark Plein), the Vier Kleur Flag flapping in the background.

I recall so many things about the early Bloemfontein. I still feel the wind from the open plains blowing across my face, the dust settling on my skin. There were only a few buildings and a couple of streets back then. You could run straight through town without taking a breath. Don’t try that now, you might just end up like me – nothing more than a hundred and sixty one year old story-telling ghost.

I was still a young boy when the Presidency was built in 1861. The third Raadzaal was built when I was about 17, in the veld on top of Maitland Street. That was also the year my mother passed away.

1875 was a great time to be a young gentleman. The sports scene in Bloemfontein really came to life. We had hunting, horse-racing, target shooting, boxing and wrestling, to name just a few. The English taught us athletics, rugby, soccer, tennis and cricket as well. Not to forget the regular games of croquet or roller skating, dancing, group picnics, bazaars, concerts and circuses we had. Artists loved to visit Bloemfontein. And they still do. It’s no wonder that a lot of artists choose this as their retirement spot.

I was even there when they lay the foundation for the Tweetoringkerk in 1878. If you look carefully at that famous photograph, you’ll see me standing way in the front, not missing a single moment. By then I was working for my Dad at the pharmacy, along with doing a few odd jobs around town. I was very proud of Bloemfontein and its people, and I was well respected for it. Most of us got along really well, the English and the Afrikaans, there was even a couple of Germans shopkeepers around. Nothing happened in Bloem without me having a say in it, or at least knowing about it.

The late eighteen hundreds were filled with different cultural activities coming to fruition. In the seventies there were the Bloemfontein Choral Society and the Bloemfontein Literary and Scientific Society. The eighties and nineties brought with them the Bloemfontein Orchestral Society, the Dramatic Society and Young Men’s Literary Society. There has always been a healthy dose of entertainment, games, reading, sport, drama, debating and music evenings to suite any tastes. I myself played a big role in establishing the ‘Bloemfontein Club for the encouragement of social intercourse amongst gentleman’ in 1881. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the boys to agree on a shorter name. 

In 1883 they installed paraffin lamps in the streets. That’s when the nightlife really got under way. Young people from farms all around gathered in the streets and socialized till dawn. Back then woman weren’t allowed to join the men in the social clubs, so they held their own social tea parties called ‘at homes’. It was only after I became a wandering ghost that I realised they didn’t just serve tea at those parties. Good for you, ladies.

It was a sad time in 1888 when President Brand died of a heart attack. I was in charge of giving a small speech in his honour at our club. That was the day I realised how much I loved this wonderful place called Bloemfontein. And that feeling hasn’t changed a bit ever since.

1890 was a very exciting time for our economy. A railway link between Bloemfontein and Cape Town was finally completed, and it brought with it people from all walks of life, as well as a few more customs.  

Now, back then this was serious stuff, but looking back now, I think it was quite funny. You see, in 1892, they introduced traffic regulations in Bloemfontein. The speed limit was set at 10km an hour, and wagon drivers and horsemen had to keep to the left. Here’s the best part, the cracking of whips in town was prohibited.

The new post office building was opened in 1892. That was the same year J.R.R Tolkien was born here. I met his father Arthur on several occasions. He was the bank manager at the time. Tolkien was about three years old when they moved back to England after the death of his father. Arthur died from rheumatic fever, the same disease that claimed my own father later that year.

I eventually watched Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings movies, as a ghost of course, and really enjoyed them. I watched all three at the Mimosa Mall cinema, the salt and vinegar aroma of popcorn hanging in the air. I’ve seen a lot of culinary advances since my death, and it’s a real burden not to be able to taste any new recipes. Sucks that we can smell it, though.

As a young boy, I recall only men (small boys included) being allowed to swim. Back then we only had dams to swim in. In 1892 they built a public swimming pool on the corner of Gordon and Douglas Street. It was filled up by a ditch dug out of Bloemspruit. Sounds funny now, but men and woman were not permitted to swim at the same time – there were different time allocations for the different sexes. I wonder what those guys have to say about how things are done nowadays.

The Volkshospitaal opened in 1893, the same year the fourth Raadzaal was built. I met President F.W. Reitz and good old Paul Kruger that day.

Watching all these vehicles rushing around, I can’t help but think about how bicycles were pretty new to our city back in the 1890’s. People quickly took to them, though. Even the younger ladies started using them, although this was heavily frowned upon by the older generations (Let’s not even talk about what the ladies tennis team had to go through). There were two cycling clubs back then. The City Cycling Club and the Southern Cross Cycling Club. They used to arrange lovely cycling trips on Sundays as well as summer evenings.

Our favourite hangout quickly became the Ramblers Sports Club, built in 1896. We spent hours socializing next to the field. Watching cricket, soccer, rugby and even boxing. I still love spending time on Bloemfontein’s sport fields, including cricket, hockey, soccer and rugby. I just love the smell of good old braaivleis next to a cricket field, or biltong at the rugby. I’ve recently started watching some motocross and go-kart racing as well. Not to forget about the mixed martial arts club in Langenhoven Park.

In case you’re wondering, I never settled down. No wife and kids for this bachelor. I was a man of the town. Bloemfontein was my only true love. Anyway, four years later the millennium ended. Back then we were certain it was the dawn of the future upon our front steps, especially because an electricity system was put into place. But our excitement was overshadowed by looming threat of the Anglo-Boer War.

People stood in clusters all across the Mark Plein as they discussed the war.
Many people signed up for service, fathers and sons side by side. Others packed up and moved. Even the politicians fled after we lost the Battle of Paardeberg. I took it upon myself to watch over Bloemfontein. Unfortunately the British paid little attention to a fifty year old man blocking their path. One of their leaders ordered me arrested, but I put up a good fight and died honourably. I guess that’s why I am able to haunt this city in its entirety. While other ghosts are confined to their home or the place of their death, I am confined to Bloemfontein, which has always been nothing less than a home to me.

By the time I realised I was dead the British soldiers were marching into the city, drums proclaiming their victory. I stood helplessly by as they filed my friends into the prison camps. At the very least I was there in spirit with them, whispering words of motivation. I was always the first one to greet them on the other side.

Right: British tents on Ramblers Field

Disease claimed a lot of the English. They even turned the classrooms of old Grey College and the rooms of Ramblers into makeshift hospitals. Arthur Conan Doyle himself worked as a doctor at Ramblers, then known as the Longman Hospital.

Bloemfontein annexed by the British(Markplein)

Rudyard Kipling also worked at The Friend newspaper in 1900. I know a lot about the man and his books, although I’ve never been able to read any of them. I did see The Jungle Book, however. I quite enjoy spending most of my time meandering through the shopping malls, watching movies, keeping up with the local news and gossip – I know quite a few shocking details, but you’ll find that wherever you may wander.

Getting back on track, Ramblers almost burnt down in 1903, and the British Colonial Secretary, Joseph Chamberlain visited that year. The Spruit River flooded and destroyed the Royal Hotel in 1904, which was later rebuilt of course. They held a parade for the flood victims, which included Bloemfontein’s only detective. He stood next to me as we watched the people stroll through the streets. It was quite moving to see how people cared for each other. I wish they would’ve held one for a fool like me.

At least education developed a lot since the war ended. A lot of new schools were erected, including the new Grey College, Brebner and Oranje Meisies School. Grey College was the first school for Afrikaner boys, which I hear is the oldest school north of the Orange River (I overheard this from a couple of proud Grey parents watching a school rugby match). The original Grey College itself was established after Sir George Grey, then Governor of the Cape Colony, visited the new Republic of the Orange Free State in 1855 and donated money towards building an educational institute.

Eunice, which I’m certain every Bloemfonteiner is familiar with, was initially named the Orange Vrij Staat Dames Instituut, built in 1875. Eunice and Grey College were erected due to the efforts of the Dutch Reformed Church, but were placed under state rule.

After the Union of South Africa was established in 1910, a lot of political parties formed right here in Bloemfontein, including the ANC in 1912 and the NP in 1914. Bloemfontein also became the Judicial Capital of South Africa in 1910.

After the last President of the Orange Free State died in 1916 (right here in Bloemfontein), I distanced myself quite a lot from politics, and spent most of my time familiarizing myself with the new inventions. Television and live shows at the Sand Du Plessis Theatre are among my favourites, and let’s not forget motor vehicles. I do miss my old horse, however. At least I can still visit my parents. Our old house might no longer be standing, but they’re still hanging around the area of the Sanlam Plaza, amazed at how much the Mark Plein has changed.

I almost forgot about the Lamont-Hussey Observatory built on top of Naval Hill in 1928. The municipality tarred the road, allowing a lot of youngsters to take their lovers along the ‘scenic’ routes. The Observatory was closed down in 1974 and turned into a theatre. Unfortunately it’s seldom used nowadays.

1950 saw the founding of the University of the Free State and 2010 saw Bloemfontein host a number of FIFA World Cup games at the Free State Stadium. I stood in the middle of the field as Bongani Khumalo and Katlego Mphela led South Africa to victory against the French.

For me the best part of the soccer world cup was looking up at the people, everyone shouting, singing, holding hands. That’s one thing I’ll always love about my city – the people have never changed. We’ve always been a bunch of friendly folks. And when things look down, we don’t wait for others to sort it out, we get the job done ourselves.

I wonder if anyone back then knew what was in store for Bloemfontein. How big it would get, yet still stay humble and caring for its people. I still visit a few of those folks now and then. They love it when I tell them all about the new buildings and inventions, the new types of music that comes with every decade and generation. My personal favourite at the moment has got to be Dan Patlanski. I never miss him when he’s in town. Him and a lot of great local bands at clubs like the Aasvoel Club beside the Kimberley highway.

Perhaps Bloemfontein’s founders knew exactly what the future had in store. It’s no wonder then they built it right in the centre of South Africa. Who knows what great things are in store for us? What changes will lead us to great new things? What wonderful people you and I’ll meet along the way? As long as Bloemfontein lives on – prospers. Change is good, it symbolizes growth. Sure there’s crime, but I guess you’ll find that in any city. At least I know we won’t sit back and just let it happen.

Now I’m going to say goodbye and leave you with these thoughts: Love your city, get to know it just a bit better every year. Get involved, visit your national monuments and tourist attractions. Take your family to the Botanical gardens every now and then. And let’s not forget about the Zoo, the Oliewenhuis art gallery, the Orchid house, the Freshford House Museum, Queen’s Fort, the National Women’s Monument, the Military Museum and the School of Armour.

Although a lot of the original government buildings were burnt down by the British, a few are still standing. Make sure you take your family to the City Hall, the Appeal Court, Fourth Raadsaal, Old Presidency, First Raadsaal and Supreme Court, before they’re no longer there. Who knows, you might catch me hanging around these places, or even at Langenhoven Park’s Boeremark, or the one opposite the Waterfront.

Finally, I don’t care that no one leaves flowers on my grave anymore, just don’t chase me out of your house if you catch me watching the news on your television.

Oh, one more thing, take care of yourself. There’s nothing worse than explaining to a young man or woman they died needlessly.

All the best and until we meet again,
Your Guardian Angel.